Day 153

07/31/12 - near Osgood Tentsite - ≈1,859 miles

What.  A.  Day.  Passed three huts.  Climbed Mt. Washington.  Climbed Mt. Madison.  Night hiked on a ridge.  Did about 15 miles.  Waved at the people riding the Cog, and a little boy gave us a thumbs down.  Mt. Washington was crazy busy.  Waiting line for the summit sign.  Pizza.  Mt. Madison was epic.  EPIC.  Mount Doom.  Rohan.  Awesomeness with the clouds crashing over the peak.  The sun was setting and Mt. Washington and Mt. Adams were appearing and disappearing into the sky.  Unbelievably incredible.  Still cannot believe what good weather we had today.  So thankful.  God is good.  Cool stealth spot tonight just below treeline.  Had to walk a narrow little path into the woods to a tiny clearing just big enough for our tents.  Pinkles Notch tomorrow!


***



This moment of watching the sunset while on the summit of Mt. Madison with waves of clouds breaking over the rocks around us... one of the coolest moments of my life.

Day 152

07/30/12 - near Mizpah Spring Hut - ≈1,844.2 miles

Slept in.  Coffee & donuts.  Gas station resupply.  Gas station second breakfast of Green Mountain Coffee... Wild Mountain Blueberry and more donuts.  Met up with Dr. Bruce!  Ate lunch and talked with him before heading back to the Trail.  Turned out to be a beautiful day as we climbed Mt. Webster and Mt. Jackson in the afternoon.  Hiked until dark struggling to find a stealth site.  MOUNT WASHINGTON tomorrow.

***

Webster.

Day 151

07/29/12 - [Crawford Notch] - 1,838.8 miles

I feel sick.  Queeeezy.  Quazy.  Quimby.  Too much junk food in town, I think.  Taking an unexpected but needed NERO.  Met Rock Dancer, the trail angel today.  Awesome guy.  My stomach is too gross to concentrate on writing.  Blemch.

***

Day 150

07/28/12 - Zealand Falls Hut - 1,831.1 miles

Doing/did our first (and probably only) work for stay tonight.  Not quite what we were expecting.  A little disappointing.  And definitely felt like second class citizens.  As Dos put it, "Back of the bus, thru-hikers."  Skunkape and Magpie also stayed with us.  An interesting experience.  Rained on us the last 5 or so miles leading up to the hut.  Slow going.  Cold.  And very wet.  Took my worst fall today just before reaching the shelter.  Slipped into the rocky creek and landed on my elbow.  Took me a second to manage and get up while my feet were completely underwater.  What a day.

***

Day 149

07/27/12 - Garfield Pond - 1,820.3 miles

Alright, so I was a little ticked off last night.  The day was actually great... just the last few hours were kinda frustrating.  Missed our work-for-stay by a literal 10 seconds.  Then the only soup they had was tomato PORK.  What?!  Then Anna's feet jumped in a stream.  Then the bear bag (or lack there of) from HELL!  But honestly, it was a good day.  Difficult and disappointing but good.  Today we started the Presidentials with Mt. Lincoln and played around on Franconia Ridge.  Wow!  Probably my favorite scenic part of our hike so far.  I couldn't stop taking photos/videos up there.  Also recited the Gettysburg Address from the summit of Mt. Lincoln.  We live in a beautiful country.  Met up with Dos and caught up a bit.  Really sad to hear that Rocky & Sunshine got off a few days ago at Great Barrington.  Gonna text them to see how they're doing.  Very sad if true.  We started with them at Springer Mountain.  Now the sun is setting over Garfield Pond where we are camped.  Dragonflies buzzing.  Frogs are squeaking.  Hoping for maybe a moose sighting.  Today was awesome.  Today was awe inspiring.

***

Something interesting happened while I was blogging this entry...

I didn't read ahead in my journal, but just began typing as I went.  I recounted the events of the "sucky" day and how the last few hours everything seemed to be going badly.  I remembered that it was frustrating, but it honestly was still a good day.

I continued typing the entry, reading about how we started the Presidential Range and the awesomeness of Franconia Ridge.  What a magical section of Trail. 

I continued typing.  Transcribing. 

We had met up with our friend, Dos, and she told us that Rocky and Sunshine got off Trail.  I stopped typing.

Tears in my eyes.

I suddenly felt the same emotion from that original moment.  As if I was hearing the news for the first time.  A full year later, completely removed from the situation.  I started thinking about how we last saw them in Harpers Ferry, WV, and how great it was to run into them again after so long.  That was the last time we would see them, because they did get off Trail a few days earlier.

The journey is never over, though.

I truly hope they are both able to get back on Trail when the time is right and make their way towards that weathered Katahdin sign.

Garfield Pond

Day 148

07/26/12 - near Lonesome Lake Hut - ≈1,809 miles

Today sucked.

***

Day 147

07/25/12 - near Mount Wolf - ≈1,796 miles

What an exhilarating day!  We climbed Mt. Moosilauke.  Long hard climb.  The wind was fierce.  Fog rolling in.  Cold.  The trees kept getting smaller and smaller until there weren't any at all.  We were above treeline, and we could hardly see 20 feet in front of us.  It was so foggy and windy.  We began our descent down to the road.  Pretty treacherous.  Hiked a bit with Badger today which was nice.  He didn't like the descent too much.  Resupplied in Lincoln and resisted temptation to stay overnight and see The Dark Knight Rises.  Back on the Trail we immediately started climbing Mount Wolf.  Now we are stealth camping a little ways up, though there's nothing really stealthy about it.  What an exhilarating day.  Welcome to the Whites, beeyatch.

***

Near the summit of Moosilauke

Day 146

07/24/12 - NH 25 - 1,785.3 miles

Today was slow going.  6 miles by about 2 o'clock.  But we picked up speed and got there eventually.  Met some nice SOBO today.  Refreshing.  Can hardly believe we are camping at the gateway of the WHITES.  In the morning we will climb Mt. Moosilauke.  Whoa.  We are about to take on the White Mountains.

***

Day 145

07/23/12 - South Jacob's Brook - 1,769.3 miles

Free water/free ice cream, the sign read.  We made the short walk off trail to the house and met Bill, the ice cream man.  Sat on his porch and talked with him and his sister and some other hikers for about 30 minutes.  Real nice guy.  Said he attended the "Church of the Blue Dome."  I really like that... even though it took us all a minute to figure it out.  We meet good people on this Trail.  I'm so thankful to be out here with Anna experiencing it all.  Even though my feet hurt so much I could cry.

***

A welcome sight on a hot summer day.

Day 144

07/22/12 - Moose Mountain Shelter - 1,753 miles

Greg Cook is awesome!  Slept in.  Breakfast of English muffins and butter with watermelon and grape juice.  Really nice guy and very generous.  We took a photo on his front porch and he drove us back to the Trail.  What an unexpected serendipity.  Crossed over into NEW HAMPSHIRE.  Wow!  Hung out in Hanover a bit while we waited for the outfitter to open.  Free Snickers bars for thru-hikers.  Free slice of pizza at the pizza place.  Forget Damascus... Hanover is the friendliest town on the AT!  I feel pretty good starting off in the HAMP, and I'm excited for what is to come.  This is going to be great.  In other news, Anna and I really enjoy meeting SOBOs and then analyzing everything the said.  New favorite pastime.  "You know nothing, Jon Snow."

***

Hanover, NH.

Day 143

07/21/12 - Norwich US 5 - 1,740.5 miles

Well, Vermont made up for its lack of trail magic in the last two miles.  Coolers and a list of trail angels.  We called Greg Cook who came and picked us up and then put us up in his house.  Two beds.  Shower.  Laundry.  Kitchen.  Amazing.  Blown away by his generosity.  Tomorrow we officially cross over into New Hampshire.  This is getting pretty real.

***

As I've said before, my biggest regret while hiking is not taking more photos of the people we met along the way.  Greg Cook was the first name on the list.  We figured we might as well just start going down the list of names (we had a similar experience in Waynesboro, VA).  We lucked out.  Majorly.  Greg's generosity and kindness was unbelievable, and it continued after the thru-hike, as he volunteered to frame (and ship) our completion certificates and summit photos.  Greg continues to open his house to weary thru-hikers, and I am truly thankful for his love of the trail and hiking community.  Brings true meaning to the term "trail angel."

Custom framing from Mr. Cook.

Day 142

07/20/12 - near Woodstock Stage Road - ≈1,721 miles

Back on the Trail after a nice relaxing spoilage with the Tuckers.  Definitely hard to get back again after a really nice break, but we are now in the homestretch.  Tomorrow New Hampshire.  Then Maine.  MAINE!  In one month we will be getting ready to summit Mount Katahdin.

***

Day 141

07/19/12 - [Woodstock] - 1,719.6 miles

Anna's birthday!  Sleeping in.  Coffee.  Lucky Charms with almond milk, movies, presents, food.  Happiness.  This has been a much needed rest.  We will soon be back on the Trail with sore backs and aching feet, but the miles are diminishing and we are getting so close to Katahdin.  Wow.  We have been on this Trail for what seems like a very long time.  March 1 seems like years ago.  One month from now we will be close to summiting and calling an end to this great journey.  But I know that with one end comes another beginning.

***

Birthday girl.

 

Photo my brother sent to Anna.

Day 140

07/18/12 - [Woodstock] - 1,719.6 miles

Met up with Dr. Bruce & Glenda at the farm stand!  So good to see them and begin spending these couple of days with them.  Staying in a real nice Holiday Inn lodge type place.  Shfancy.  Ate so much food today.  Tomorrow is Anna's birthday!

***

Day 139

07/17/12 - Wintturi Shelter - 1,715.8 miles

Arrogant SOBOs are annoying!  Me monsters.  I!  I!  I!  We got to this shelter early on, and two SOBOs have been hanging out telling the same freakin' story to everyone passing through.  "...a glass bottle of chocolate milk!"  Annoying.  Thunderstorm might be coming now.  Early today it started raining.  Anna began a duel with Mother Nature putting on her rain jacket.  The rain would stop.  She'd take it off.  Rain would start again.  She'd put it on.  Rain would immediately stop.  Funny stuff.  Looking forward to our ZERO tomorrow!

***

Notice how I said arrogant SOBOs were annoying.  Not all SOBOs we met were obnoxious.  But most were.  haha

Cheerio

Have you ever bicycled from Portland, Oregon to Denver, Colorado?

Well, this guy has.  I met Alan a few weeks ago at my house of all places.  It was his last night camping on his epic trek before he headed back to his UK home.  His blog documents the whole trip.  His sentiments reminded me a lot of our feelings while hiking the AT.  His latest entry, especially... you should definitely check it out.

Honorable Manhood

If you haven't seen the Ken Burns documentary, The Civil War... you must.  I've been watching it every year or so for the past few years.  Throughout the film series, Burns documents the events of the American Civil War.  But more so, he captures the human spirit in such a personal, emotional, and relatable way.  Below is just one of those moments.

Day 138

07/16/12 - Stony Brook Shelter - 1,705.9 miles

Vermont is hot and humid.  Quimby Mountain is the nerd of mountains.  And a mother effin pain to climb.  Met Jester (AT '94) today.  Real nice guy.  One more day of hiking until meeting up with Anna's parents for her birthday.  So excited for that.  I'm thirsty.

***

Day 137

07/15/12 - Churchill Scott Shelter - 1,694 miles

Trail magicless in Vermont.  Never seen so many biting gnat/fly things in my tent at once.  Probably 30 or so.  Biting me.  Bleeding me.  My feet are in a lot of pain.  I smell like sweat & urine.

***

Day 136

07/14/12 - Minerva Hinchy Shelter - 1,675.8 miles

What an exhausting day.  Been drinking liter after liter of water.  Who knew Vermont could be so swampy?  Anna's not feeling well :(  We think it might be sleep.  But she hikes on as usual.  Lunch by a beautiful pond.  So tired.  Always.  One of my shelter log entries for today read:

The Good: Beautiful Vermont day.
The Bad: KitFox isn't feeling well, and my tent zipper is officially broken.
The Ugly: I'm out of toilet paper.

Thankfully, only a few miles later there was an outhouse with some TP.  Tomorrow will be another difficult day.  The image of us summiting Katahdin motivates me and helps drive me on.  NORTH.

***

Day 135

07/13/12 - Baker Peak - 1,658.9 miles

Met a nice elderly man today in the café.  Small talk as we were getting a refill of coffee.  Then he says, "Well, I'm taking you back to the Trail."  Big fan of hikers and really nice.  Married to his wife for 65 years.  We got rear-ended on the way back, but he didn't seem to mind.  Once back on the trail, I began to struggle.  It's always difficult for me to make those climbs out of town.  The last few miles to camp were especially tough for me.  So tired and hungry.  Set up camp, and my tent zipper is officially broken.  Sleeping with a slit tonight.  Mosquitoes and flies have been really bad today.

***

Favorite breakfast of the Trail.

Day 134

07/12/12 - [Manchester Center] - 1,646.1 miles

3 miles from camp to the road.  Hitched with 3 young dudes.  Laundry, coffee, and donuts (I bought... "Scuttle"), resupply, checked in at Sutton's Place.  Nice house.  Nice guy, Frank.  Really warm outside and inside – no AC.  More coffee at the bookstore.  Wanted to buy everything!  Outfitter.  Dinner at Ye Olde Tavern.  Mmm.  More coffee.  Cool town.  But too warm for Vermont.  Really sleepy.  Anna is wonderful.

***

New English dinner.

Day 133

07/11/12 - Spruce Peak Shelter - 1,643.3 miles

Another day trying to evade the horde... but a good day.  Ready for some town tomorrow.  So many people out here on the Trail.  Heard a loon this morning and saw a little weasel looking thing.  Long body, brownish fur, fluffy tail and climbing a tree.  Not a squirrel.  Anna and I have a bet on the seagull's name in The Little Mermaid.  She says "Scuttle."  I say "Scuttles."  Loser buys breakfast in the mor-ting.

***

Day 132

07/10/12 - Story Spring Shelter - 1,625 miles

Ever see those movies where some poor sap is being hunted by a pack of dogs or an angry mob?  Pretty much sums up our hike for today.  Except they weren't dogs, and they weren't angry.  But basically we were trying to stay ahead of the horde.  The shelter tonight is packed.  Tents everywhere.  Slopey sleeping tonight!

***

Day 131

07/09/12 - Melville Nauheim Shelter - 1,607.6 miles

VERMONT.  Whoa!  This is getting real.  And it's definitely getting cooler, too.  Had a "nice" chat with a lady this morning as we were packing up camp... about how we needed to leave immediately because we weren't allowed.  Fun!  Of course, this was debated since it was unclear and actually seemed like an alright place to camp.  Fun.  Today's hiking was tough.  But what else is new?  And I ain't thinkin' it's getting any easier.

***

Vermont & The LT

Day 130

07/08/12 - somebody's backyard - 1,588 miles

5 Hour Energy & Worx!  Climbed Mount Greylock.  Beautiful day and gorgeous trail.  Convenient store in Cheshire and AYCE Chinese in whatever town this is.  Cute town.  Tomorrow we cross into Vermont.  Is this real life?  I can hardly believe it.

***

Summit of Mt. Greylock

Little grey squirrel

I'm gonna find a little grey squirrel,
And I'm gonna call the little squirrel Earl.
He can jump from limb to limb.
Don't I wish I could jump like him.
- Raffi

Day 129

07/07/12 - Crystal Mountain Campsite - 1,5678.8 miles

First morning drinking Folgers instead of VIA.  Sad day.  But cheaper day.  And honestly not that bad.  The Trail went through Dalton today.  Saw a cat.  Called him to me and we played.  Love.  Saw Badger (and his son in law's uncle... lolz).  Ate at a place called Jacob's because we heard it was hiker friendly.  Sure, they were nice, but any place that charges extra for lettuce, tomato, and onions on an already $9 dollar sandwich, or doesn't have free refills on soda (but makes it seem like they do)... is no friend of mine.  Just sayin'.

***

Yeah, what's up with Northern states charging for soda refills?  I thought we lived in the United States of 'MURICA?!  But really... as a hot, thirsty hiker who daydreams about soda ALL THE TIME... if you claim to be hiker friendly – give free refills.  In other news, cat pics!

Day 128

07/06/12 - October Mountain Shelter - 1,552.3 miles

Lingered in town as long as possible before having to head out.  Super 8 breakfast, lunch at the Rose Restaurant, then coffee and donuts at D&D.  Hitched back to the Trail and headed ever NORTH.  So many mosquitoes, there are.  There are so many mosquitoes.  Anna is not feeling well, poor thing.  Hopefully some sleep will help.  She is so amazing.

***

Day 127

07/05/12 - [Lee] - 1,545.1 miles

10 miles into town.  5 mile hitch.  Super 8.  Dunkin' Donuts.  Price Chopper.  Friendly's.  So tired.  And not feeling all that well.  These town days don't seem to be giving me the amount of rest I could really go for.

***

Always fun walking over interstates.

Day 126

07/04/12 - Tyringham - 1,536 miles

Ouch.  Ouch.  Ouch.  Ouch.  My feet are in pain.  I cannot rub them enough to ease the soreness.  Today was difficult.  Not an easy or relaxing Fourth of July.  But I guess neither was the first one around that time.  Ouch.


***

Independence berries.

Day 125

07/03/12 - Bearwalker's & Buttons' - 1,516 miles

What a day.  1500 miles.  Massachusetts.  Hot.  Rocky.  Cliffy.  Beautiful.  Hiked to Route 7 which had a Grill 0.3 miles off the Trail.  Of course, the one day we are there is the one day they are closed (Tuesday).  Hitched to a hotdog joint further up the road to try and boost our morale for the end of our long day.  Cash only.  So we couldn't get anything.  Called up Bearwalker, who we had met earlier at the trail junction.  He was inviting hikers to come and crash at his and his girlfriend's place.  So glad I took his number earlier because we weren't planning on staying, but since we were striking out, I gave him a call and said we'd changed our minds.  Super nice people.  Got some food and talked for a bit.  Tent city in their backyard.  Tomorrow, hitting up the Dunkin' Donuts that's only a block from their house.  One more day until another town day.  And it's gonna be another tough one.

***

Former thru-hikers, they had somewhat recently moved to a town closer to the Trail, offering Trail Magic to current hikers.  Extremely generous with their time and hospitality.  I'm so glad we had the privilege to meet and stay with them.

Bearwalker & Buttons

Day 124

07/02/12 - near Lion's Head - 1,495.6 miles

Today was brutal.  Was shooting for a 30 mile day.  By noon we had done 9 miles.  Ouch.  Ended up making it about a 25 mile day.  Now there's some animal stomping around outside our tent.  I am so so tired.

***

Day 123

07/01/12 - Silver Hill campsite - 1,471.4 miles

Went to Kent.  In Kent we spent.  Spent a cent.  In my tent.  Drank coffee and it was soooo good!  IGA kinda disappointing.  Outfitter as well.  Hitched in thanks to a kind lady who passed us then turned around to come back and pick us up.  Coming out of town we decided to just walk it.  Only a couple minutes in, the same lady pulls over and asks us if we want a ride.  Turns out she drove back through town just to see if we happened to be there.  Her name was Nancy and she was very kind... even offered to let us swim in her pool.  SO TEMPTING!  But we had miles to do.  And so we pressed on.  Climbing mountains.  Descending cliff faces.  And dodging hail stones.  All in a day's hike.

***

During the storm.