Flattop

The stars are the only light as I pull into the Bear Lake parking lot.

I click on my headlamp.

Hiking past the eerily quiet black water of Bear Lake, I begin my ascent to Flattop Mountain.

The rocks and dirt and twigs feel welcome beneath my boots.

A faint orange light begins to appear through the trees on the horizon.

The stars begin to fade away.

I stop for coffee at treeline just as the orange fireball bursts over the horizon.

The squirks of a thousand pikas fight to be heard over the howling wind.

I climb higher into the alpine tundra.

A lone bull elk watches me from afar and trots down the mountainside.

The wind tries to push me over as I approach the top.

There is no other sound but the howling in my ears.

Alone on Flattop with the howling wind.

I pause.

And join in the howling before retreating back down the mountain.

Boiling Springs

I'm currently sitting in Caffè 101 in Boiling Springs, PA. It's another frigid day, but the sun is shining, and I have breath in my lungs. The lake across the street is filled with all kinds of ducks and geese, lazily paddling through the steaming water. The town clock tower rings its melodious bells as I savor my third cup of coffee. Indeed, life is good. 

Day 135

07/13/12 - Baker Peak - 1,658.9 miles

Met a nice elderly man today in the café.  Small talk as we were getting a refill of coffee.  Then he says, "Well, I'm taking you back to the Trail."  Big fan of hikers and really nice.  Married to his wife for 65 years.  We got rear-ended on the way back, but he didn't seem to mind.  Once back on the trail, I began to struggle.  It's always difficult for me to make those climbs out of town.  The last few miles to camp were especially tough for me.  So tired and hungry.  Set up camp, and my tent zipper is officially broken.  Sleeping with a slit tonight.  Mosquitoes and flies have been really bad today.

***

Favorite breakfast of the Trail.

Day 134

07/12/12 - [Manchester Center] - 1,646.1 miles

3 miles from camp to the road.  Hitched with 3 young dudes.  Laundry, coffee, and donuts (I bought... "Scuttle"), resupply, checked in at Sutton's Place.  Nice house.  Nice guy, Frank.  Really warm outside and inside – no AC.  More coffee at the bookstore.  Wanted to buy everything!  Outfitter.  Dinner at Ye Olde Tavern.  Mmm.  More coffee.  Cool town.  But too warm for Vermont.  Really sleepy.  Anna is wonderful.

***

New English dinner.

Day 128

07/06/12 - October Mountain Shelter - 1,552.3 miles

Lingered in town as long as possible before having to head out.  Super 8 breakfast, lunch at the Rose Restaurant, then coffee and donuts at D&D.  Hitched back to the Trail and headed ever NORTH.  So many mosquitoes, there are.  There are so many mosquitoes.  Anna is not feeling well, poor thing.  Hopefully some sleep will help.  She is so amazing.

***

Day 109

06/17/12 - near Camp Road - 1,298.2 miles

We are in New Jersey!  So glad and excited to be out of PA.  Had a delicious breakfast in Delaware Water Gap, then hit up the outfitter for a few minutes.  Somewhere along the way I lost the tip to one of my trekking poles.  We saw our first three rattlesnakes today... the first one was huge.  Those things are kinda scary.  No bears yet in NJ, but we're on the lookout!

***

A heavenly luxury while passing through town.